Friday, January 7, 2011

Vogue 8613 - Pattern Review


I think it was the cap sleeve of view A that attracted me to this pattern.  The skirt without gathers, tucks or pleats yet with some flair also appealed. I have a piece of silk/cotton fabric which I could picture in this style.  The skirt construction and style also means that it would be easy to line.  The only problem I could foresee was that the pattern was sized for moderate stretch knits only and the silk cotton is a woven with no stretch.   I could see that the skirt could be cut on the bias, the bodice too.  This would create more ease in the garment.


Intending to make a muslin before cutting into the cotton/silk, I found a piece of stretch poplin in my stash and decided to use this.  It had some stretch in it but not as much as the kind of knit fabric the pattern is intended for but would offer scope to judge just how much movement was allowed in the pattern.  I  added .5cm extra to the seam allowance and left enough fabric at the centre back of the bodice to make a pleat, if required.  The dress features a front button opening and a side seam zip.  I wondered if the zip would be necessary.  It certainly is.  The dress is very fitted and without the zip it would be much harder to get into and out of, though I suspect that if the fabric is very stretchy you could get away without the zip as there would be enough stretch at the waist of the dress to get it over head or hips.

It is hard to tell from the photo, but I did create a pleat in the lower part of the back bodice to add comfort and allow for movement.
The feature on the front bodice I thought from looking at the illustration was going to be three little tucks. They are in fact darts.  They could easily be made into tucks or gathers; either of which I think would be attractive.  I did make the self fabric tie but thought the dress looked a little dowdy.  A different colour would lift the dress and the illustration for View A does picture a contrasting tie belt.  For this dress, a belt made from the same fabric with a vintage looking buckle would also look great.  The dress in the photo is shown with a belt purchased from Country Road.

My cap sleeves have a few gathers at the sleeve head. I think a moderate stretch fabric would have enabled me to eliminate these and end up with a result that did look just like the picture.  I actually like the gathers.  They add a touch more femininity which suits this fabric and creates a softer look. I bound the lower part of the armhole, which would not have been necessary if I had used a jersey or similar fabric.  I was very happy with how this dress turned out. It was an easy pattern to sew. The pattern is definitely sized for a stretchy fabric, so it would be essential to make a muslin if using a woven fabric to garner the correct fit for ease and comfort.  I'm especially pleased I didnt make the dress in the silk/cotton first up as having seen the finished result I have decided that I am less keen on this style.  It could easily look dowdy and a little too plain for my liking. Choosing the right fabric or embellishments for the dress would ensure against this.  I think if I made this pattern again I would make it with short puffed sleeves (not an option included with the pattern).  Or out of a picture fabric; one that requires a plain construction to allow the fabric to star.

Sunday, December 26, 2010

Monday, November 15, 2010

The Cat's Pyjamas


I've just noticed that the pyjamas I am wearing still have the tacking thread in them.  They are donkeys years old and have been worn thousands of times - nearly on their 'last legs' and still I havent gotten around to removing the tacking. What is that they say about the mechanic's car, the plumber's drains, the teacher's kids..... and the clothier's pyjamas!
At least the tacking thread matches - it doesnt always.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

going where angels fear to tread....


I've seen two episodes now of the BBC production The Choir: Boys Dont Sing that is being aired on ABC1 at 6pm on Tuesday nights. I believe this is the middle series of three which follows choirmaster Gareth Malone as he takes on seemingly huge challenges.  I believe it is a repeat so you might have already seen the whole series. In the one I have been watching, Gareth goes into an all boys school where they havent had singing since the 70's with the intention of starting a choir. Here, the belief that "boys dont sing" prevails. I am so inspired by the ways he overcomes resistance - really challenges and begins to change a whole culture. I love his gung ho belief in his ability to do this - even though all the evidence seems to be to the contrary. In tonight's episode he decides to form a staff choir so as to provide some positive role modeling for the boys.  After much persistence he finally gets one of the really popular male teachers to join.  A bloke who said he hated singing - a waste of time - would rather be playing rugby  but after the staff choir performs at Sports day -  this teacher discovers he is actually quite good at singing - and that he enjoys it.  I found the episode I watched tonight very moving as well.  The changes in the boys,  seeing them express parts of themselves that previously they kept hidden is really inspiring.  Gareth says of the 15 year old who sings a solo piece in the performance "he might never have sung another note after leaving primary school except for in the privacy of his own bedroom".  I'm also hugely inspired by the way Gareth tackles it all head on.  He has 170 boys volunteer to be in the choir. 50 auditon to sing solo. Only two of the boys have had any choral experience. But there is no nursing them along - no gently, gently.  He commits to a public performance that is just weeks away - a goal, something to work for is what is needed to build the confidence.  My experience would attest to this yet it seems counter intuitive.  It would be easy to think that confidence comes through practice then you do the hard thing but no, confidence is developed in doing  the hard thing.  I hope I can remember that and push myself to do more hard things.  What might I do this week, tomorrow, to get out of my comfort zone?

Saturday, October 23, 2010

happiness is.....


I've used a whole pencil writing in figures in preparation for my tax return. What a drag.  Each time I sharpened my pencil the shavings looked like wistful butterflies longing to be else where. Easy to get bogged down. luckily i could see the fabrics of hope out waving in the spring breeze - a promise of better and more fun things to come. Yah!


Friday, October 8, 2010

Getting Red-dy

or going dotty!  Here are the skirts I finished today - ready for tomorrow's Blackbird Market


Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Vintage Heaven


Quite by accident, walking a different route to catch a tram, I came across a vintage market place:  Lost and Found Market on Smith Street, Collingwood.  Just popping in for a brief gander, I found wonderful things.  Some lovely 70's fabrics, a scarf that is just the shade of red I've been looking for and some cute vintage handbags.

The best find of all was a pattern for a dress that I remember my mum making for me when I was a teeny bopper in the seventies.  She made a denim one that I wore as a pinafore and as a sundress and another cotton one in a novelty print that I wore as a sundress.  I wore them to death.  Particularly the denim one.  It was a favourite for as many years as it fitted me.  Funny thing is, I'd been thinking about some of the dresses my mum had made me and wishing those patterns had been kept as I would love to re-use them.  I was also thinking about the very pretty cotton fabrics, some seersucker, that she used.  Havent seen anything like them for years. The pattern I found has never been used.  I cant wait to make it up. Not for me, of course coz I remember the rule about vintage: if you wore it the first time round then it's not for you, second time round. Besides, it wouldnt fit me. It is such a comfortable, flattering style I hope someone else will see it on my market stalls and love it as much as I did (do).  I think the first one I make will be in a soft hemp organic cotton denim that I have.  Meanwhile, I'll keep my eyes open for a small 70ish floral print.